WaterWalker from used utility poles and big buoys
January 16, 2009 at 10:38 am #4693
The $200 I promised earlier are sent (just like last time: from secondlife to paypal).January 17, 2009 at 12:01 pm #4694
>The $200 I promised earlier are sent (just like last time: from secondlife to paypal).
Thanks much! The $500 total that I got for building WaterWalker2 and going on a maiden voyage just about covered the material costs.
I am trying to get $400 toward a $675 kite and have pledges for a total of $300 so far. Can people pledge to cover the last $100 so I can go get this kite? You only pay after WaterWalker2 is taken on a trip of at least 1.5 miles and documented on he wiki. I will measure speed and how far off the wind I can go with this better kite on a less windy day than the first trip. I also expect to have a better platform solution. Going further from the beach we should get larger waves to test in. The biggest waves on the first trip were about 3 feet.
— VinceJanuary 25, 2009 at 10:31 pm #4730
Can people pledge to cover the last $100 so I can go get this kite?
I will sponsor the remaining $100. Thank you for all your constructive input.January 28, 2009 at 8:37 pm #4757
>I will sponsor the remaining $100. Thank you for all your constructive input.
Thanks much! I just called and the kite is still for sale. I will go buy it tomorrow morning.
I have started a page for the second trip. I expect to do it in the second half of February. Plan is to be at least 1.5 miles long on GPS track.
You have to take life as it happens, but you should try to make it
happen the way you want to take it.
– German ProverbFebruary 3, 2009 at 2:31 am #4812
Found a way to drive to a good beach for launching:
I also got the new kite (image below) and put up an image showing the planned route:
Still expecting to launch second trip later this month.February 5, 2009 at 6:58 pm #4851
One problem with aluminum is that it can form a type of electrolysis with the salt water (slightly polarized).
In short, it oxidizes and you lose material off your aluminum poles and that errodes it in the long run. You can fix this by setting up a very simple zinc sacrificial electrode. Or you can buy marine grade aluminum, but I don’t know how much that is.
I’ve read a few sites saying that it was a bad idea to use aluminum.
Aluminum cannot be cast in good marine grade alloys, thus all aluminum castings corrode like a banshee. Aluminum is extremely vulnerable to crevice corrosion, which is why so many aluminum tanks fail. Don’t blame the material, blame the installer for not doing it right. Done right, aluminum tanks will last forever. Fuel tanks, that is, not water tanks. AL should not be used for water tanks, period.
Aluminum is similar to Corten steel in that it develops a layer of self-protecting oxide. This layer is so thin you can’t even see it, but it’s there. Quality marine alloys don’t corrode and fail, except where crevices may exist, and when joined to dissimilar metals. That’s why it’s nearly impossible to keep paint on aluminum window frames when secured with stainless screws.
Keeping paint on aluminum is extremely difficult, and requires very careful and proper preparation. All these boats with painted but corroding window and door frames are the result of just shooting the raw aluminum without proper preparation procedures, many without even the proper primers that are indispensable to making the paint stay on. Worse, many boats these days simply use residential or recreational grade windows and doors that are not even a marine grade aluminum. There’s no hope for this stuff.
Needless to say, this is what makes maintaining stern drives so difficult. Not only are they vulnerable to galvanism because of all the different metals in the drive, but it only takes a very small amount of stray current to cause serious damage, as shown in the photos above.
Revolution starts in the mind.
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